Loewe
Ok, so it's pretty clear that i'm a huge fan of J.W.Anderson - both his namesake brand and his work at Loewe. Anderson's attention to detail is extraordinary, always seeking to develop new and innovative textile applications and crafts. This season the Loewe woman was a traveller, more bohemian than previously seen. Patchwork was a key theme, with fabric swatches representing the kind of souvenirs the Loewe muse would collect on her travels. My favourite looks in the collection, were the handkerchief hem dresses, complete with frills and paisley prints. An earthy colour palette with soft pastels was beautifully feminine, without being twee.
Celine
Phoebe Philo has the undeniable power of creating timeless collections which are full of classic investment pieces. This season was no different. Prior to the show, Philo explained that she wanted the collection to be personal and optimistic. Inspired by the early 80's, we saw oversized belted trench coats and long pleated skirts in khaki colours. As always with Celine, there was an exceptional level of craftmanship - whipstitched leather coats, sequin dresses and feather embellished shirt dresses. With this being Celine, the accessories were very covetable, including sock boots and rimless sunglasses. Beautiful from start to finish.
Louis Vuitton
Talk about saving the best for last! I honestly don't think there has ever been a collection by Nicolas Ghesquiere which I haven't loved. Closing Paris fashion week, the Louis Vuitton show took place in the Louvre. Many of the key pieces in the collection were inspired by historical royal clothing, but such pieces were styled with relaxed athletic shorts and statement trainers. The coats were made from the most exquisite woven jacquard fabrics complete with floral prints and gold thread. They were works of art. Some of the edgier looks in the collection were the knitted striped bodycon dresses and Stranger Things tee. I adored the styling of long sleeved tops and blouson blouses underneath sleeveless dresses. Key Items - waistcoats, vinyl trousers, small frame cateye sunglasses (the biggest eyewear trend of 2017, which will continue into 2018).
Alexander McQueen
Sarah Burton explained that the McQueen SS18 collection was inspired by 'the healing power of nature'. There is always a strong element of nature in a McQueen collection and this season floral cross-stitched dresses and handcrafted floral gowns were amongst the standout looks. Of course there were ruffled dresses, off-the-shoulder leather bustier dresses - both with an underlying sex appeal. Belts and harnesses featured throughout, as did plaid textiles and statement jewellery - all the classic elements of a McQueen collection were clear to see and I for one loved every single look. Key Accessory - embellished biker boots.
Off-White
You may remember a while back, I profiled Off-White on my blog - charting the rise of one of the most coveted new brands in fashion. Whilst primarily seen as a streetwear brand, for SS18 Virgil Abloh has taken his brand beyond that. This year marks the 20th anniversary of Princess Diana's death and that was, believe it or not, the inspiration behind this collection. Everyone remembers Princess Diana's sartorial choices, and Abloh was reinventing her key looks for the modern woman. This may not have seemed like an obvious choice of inspiration for the man who is more used to dressing the likes of Hailey Baldwin and Bella Hadid - but they are the style icons of today, in the same way that Princess Diana was in the late 80's early 90's. Afterall, there is a huge 90's revival happening right now so in a weird way it seemed kind of fitting. Power suits, epic shoulder pads, mom jeans - the references were there to see. To modernise the collection, leather jackets and sporty wrap sunglasses with branded Off-White cords were styled with the vintage inspired pieces.
So that completes my reviews of the SS18 collections...but do not fear as starting next week my SS18 Trend Report Series will be starting on my blog. Each week I will be documenting a different trend emerging from the catwalk. This will include print trends, colour, fabric and accessories - so stay tuned for that!
If you want a more extensive look at the SS18 collections, then be sure to follow my Pinterest. There you will find a very in depth look at each runway collection. (details below)
Phillippa x
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