As I do each season, I am once again reviewing my top picks from the new season collections. First up is New York. Two of my favourite designers, Rodarte and Proenza Schouler, have recently departed NYFW instead opting to join the couture schedule in Paris...hence why they are missing from this review. And whilst I did miss their presence on the schedule this season, there were many other designers whose collections caught my eye...here are my top 5 from NYFW...
Marc Jacobs
Certainly not a collection for a shrinking violet...but when does Marc Jacobs ever do anything by halves? For me this was undoubtedly the standout show from NYFW this season - The colour, print, embellishment, glamour, excess - it was all there loud and proud. OK...so where to start! Firstly we have to discuss the prints - both oversized and psychedelic. The trippy patterns were real showstoppers and came on floor sweeping dresses, which had a retro feel to them, and also on sporty outerwear for a more modern look. There was also a naivety in the way in which they had been drawn. Then there were the turbans, as seen on most of the models. Tapping into the current sports culture in fashion, the collection included: silk trackpants, sliders and cross body bags. Throw in a tonne of sequins and embellishment into the mix and you've got yourself a pretty MAJOR SS18 collection.
Calvin Klein
The American artist Sterling Ruby, provided a key source of inspiration for Raf Simons latest offering for Calvin Klein. If you are familiar with the artists work, then you will recognise his spray paint style artwork adorning rubber macs and skirts. Simons explained his obsession with film and tv also played a part in his collection, hence the somewhat sinister feel to the aforementioned garments - 'American horror, American dreams' Simons explained. In a further nod to Hollywood, Andy Warhol prints of the actor Dennis Hopper were printed on dresses. Ladylike 1950's silhouettes were modernised by the use of waterproof nylon. Above all else, what I liked the most here was the use of colour-blocking. Striking colour combinations of orange/black and yellow/pink will no doubt be influencing my Spring 18 wardrobe.
Prabal Gurung
Prabal does proportion exceptionally well, and this season was no different. Beautifully feminine silhouettes, with slashed details and delicate rouleau buttons were key features. The colour palette was simply music to my ears, with fuschia and neon pink being constant throughout the collection. I loved the injection of an edgy asymmetric plaid, along with the most wonderful floral print. Leather and corset waists toughened up the collection and offered something a little more dramatic to the collection... perhaps for a consumer who wishes to take a few more sartorial risks with their look.
Monse
Distinct references to college and sportswear were made during the latest Monse runway presentation. Baseball-style shirts, complete with slogans, and stitched detailing were present throughout. Signature stripes worked perfectly with the theme of the show, and complemented the star prints perfectly. Of course with the theme being what it was, a colour palette or red, white and blue worked harmoniously with the collection. Track pants and bomber jackets were elevated with the use of off-the-shoulder tailoring. Monse is still proving to be one of the must-have new brands on the fashion scene!
Jason Wu
Wu explained prior to his show that this season his collection would offer something more casual than in previous seasons. Loosely draped silhouettes, in ultra-soft colours, were the order of the day. The introduction of jersey, as a material of choice, further ensured the relaxed feel to the collection. Despite the cutout details and sheer panels, there was a rather effortless feel to the collection. A tropical floral print, in acid brights, injected personality into the collection.
For a more extensive look at all the collections from NYFW, be sure to follow my 'Runway Favourites' board over on my Pinterest (details below).
Stay tuned to my blog, as my London Fashion Week review is coming on Saturday...
Phillippa x
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