Monday, 19 March 2018

Trend Report - Total Transparency

Sheer fabrics are having somewhat of a resurgence this season, with many luxury brands showcasing total head-to-toe looks during their S/S 18 and A/W 18 presentations constructed from transparent materials. Over the past few seasons the 'underwear as outerwear' trend has been huge, with designers such as Christian Dior really championing this look. It seems that this season the desired look has moved on and is now being embraced in a more mainstream way. Previously it was typically eveningwear for which sheer fabrics were deemed acceptable, but now the trend is crossing over into daywear as well. On the S/S 18 catwalk vinyl was a popular choice, especially for outerwear, as it is hard wearing and waterproof - making for the ultimate fashion rain mac. Diaphanous dresses and blouses, as seen at Calvin Klein and Emporio Armani, were layered over t-shirts and vest tops meaning this trend need not be all about 'freeing the nipple'. Such garments are simply just layering pieces which can be worn over many existing items you already own, making them a great way to update your wardrobe for the coming season. Whilst these transparent pieces come in a variety of silhouettes, making them in theory easy to wear, I can of course still see why this trend would be deemed to be 'daring' and 'fashion forward'. Would you be brave enough to rock up to work wearing this trend? Key Designers: Burberry, Chanel, Christopher Kane, Emilia Wickstead, Joseph and Philipp Plein.
If you are looking to shop this trend, the easiest way is to wear the look is with a classic transparent rain mac. Many retailers have super afforadble styles, but if you are looking for something a little more adventurous then designer is the way to go. Luxury brands have really experimented with this trend, see my edit below for inspiration...
1. Trench Coat - Burberry £1495
2. Coat - Paskal £760
3. Coat - Zara £29.99
4. Shoes - Off-White £850
5. Bag - Urban Outfitters £20
6. Mules - Givenchy £650
7. Trousers - Givenchy £1160
8. Top - Versace £400
9. Coat - Boohoo £18
Phillippa x

Twitter - @Phillippa22
Instagram - phillippa22
Pinterest - phillippadesign

Wednesday, 14 March 2018

Outfit of The Month - March

For this look I really wanted to experiment with different proportions. I typically wear mini skirts, but as of late mid length skirts have been exceptionally popular. In particular handkerchief hem skirts. As I documented on my blog a few weeks ago, Prince of Wales checks are a huge trend for SS18, so cue this perfect skirt from Monse. It combines several trends into one and given the colour it can easily be a day to night transitional piece. A classic fine knit top from Cushnie et Ochs keeps the main part of the outfit very classic. Wanting to add an 'edge' to this look, I have teamed the outfit with an oversized and asymmetric quilted jacket. Again, this style of jacket is a huge outerwear trend at the moment. It completely elevates this look and makes it more fashion forward. As it is a very trend driven piece, you will want to get your wear out of this season. It would also look great teamed with jeans and trainers. To complete this look, I have styled with classic mules from Malone Souliers and a Strathberry bag. Megan Markle has recently been spotted wearing multiple Strathberry bags, thus raising the profile of this Scottish accessories brand. Invest now, before styles sell out! Overall with this outfit, I love the juxtaposition of the feminine silhouette contrasted with the sporty outerwear.
Phillippa x

Twitter - @Phillippa22
Instagram - phillippa22
Pinterest - phillippadesign

Monday, 12 March 2018

On Trend Now - Cycling Shorts

Saddle up because cycling shorts are officially a major trend for 2018. Forget mainstream athleisure, cycling shorts are the number one garment of choice in order to dress the part this season. Championed initially by Kanye's brand Yeezy, the popularity of such shorts continued to grow with countless more fashion brands designing modern versions of the classic sportswear apparel in materials such as leather. Chanel even went one step further and delivered a pair with embellished palm motifs. Lets make no mistakes here, this is not exactly the most flattering of trend...if anything its the complete opposite. I mean how many people actually look good in lycra? But this is fashion that we are talking about, so the above doesn't even really matter. If its 'on trend' people will still want to wear it. Kim K, and sisters, have been loving this look for the past 18 months or so and regularly team cycle shorts with tight cami's and a pair of heels. If you ask me, that is taking this trend one step to far. Remember, these are the Kardashians we are talking about, so the mainstream rules of supposed 'daywear' do not necessarily apply. Would you want to walk down Oxford Street in a pair of skin tight cycle shorts, styled in the same way as Kim?...most likely the answer would be no. There is, however, a more elegant way to wear such shorts. Team with a tailored jacket or cashmere knit sweater, in black or grey, for a sophisticated take on the trend. Key Designers: Dion Lee, Chloe, Alexander Wang and MSGM. 
Phillippa x

Twitter - @Phillippa22
Instagram - phillippa22
Pinterest - phillippadesign

Saturday, 10 March 2018

Paris Fashion Week A/W 18 - Top 5

So that's a wrap! Another fashion month has drawn to a close. Here is my top 5 review from Paris Fashion Week...
Christian Dior
As of late, Dior collections have championed feminism and this A/W offering was no different. Maria Grazia Chuiri took inspiration from the Paris student protests which took place in 1968. References came in the form of the fabrics of choice - crochet, archival patchworks and peace sign intarsia's. I adored the colour pop prints and ombre knits as well as the great layering pieces. Embroidered tulle dresses have fast become a Dior signature, and these closed the show displaying a high level of craftmanship. Dior sunglasses are always a coveted seasonal must have, and this season they had mono lenses and were oversized rimless styles.
Demna Gvaslia was referencing a 'snowboarders paradise' for his latest collection for Balenciaga. The idea of snowboarding and skiing brought about the concept of layering clothes and oversized silhouettes, which also nicely referenced Cristobel Balenciaga's iconic bubble gowns. Razor-sharp tailored jackets were paired with ski pants which elongated the legs. Traditional fabrics such as tweed and wool were bonded onto foam, resulting in a more tech driven feel to the collection. Skintight mini dresses, in velvet, had a gymnastic leotard appeal to them and prints from these dresses also carried across to pleated skirts.
Opinions have been divided over Olivier Lapidus taking the helm at Lanvin last season, but I have to say that I personally really liked this collection. Silhouettes were all pretty wearable, with no daring cuts or pieces that won't translate well off the runway. For me though, it was the strong pop of colour that drew me to the collection. Clashes of orange and blue were striking and was the combo of yellow and pink. Heavy silk was the fabric of choice, and ombre vinyl coats and cross-body bags with built-in phone holders modernised the collection.
Marine Serre
Marine Serre may only be on her third collection, but is fast becoming one of my favourite new designer brands. Athletic silhouettes (bodysuits and cycling shorts) tapped into the market for all things athleisure, which continues to be a macro trend. Scarf prints were fashioned into dresses and handkerchief hem skirts, and I loved the contrast of these feminine pieces layered with skin-tight long sleeved tops and statement sneakers. Whilst some pieces were modern, others were classic in their tailoring (checked blazers), proving that Marine Serre is shaping up to be a brand that can appeal to many different markets.
Off-White is definitely having a major fashion moment at the present, being one of the hottest brands to be seen wearing. Virgil Abloh took his latest collection down an equestrian route, cue riding boots and horse motifs. Tapestry featured heavily throughout the collection and came in shades of blue and green. They inevitably had a heritage feel to them, but managed to modern at the same time. As always with Off-White there is an strong emphasis on street style, and we saw that here with hooded parka's and tech body-con dresses. One-shoulder leather dresses and undercut bodices were amongst the standout pieces.

For a more extensive look at all the A/W 18 collections, be sure to follow my Pinterest (details below). If you take a look at my 'Runway Favourites' and 'Fashion Lookbooks' boards you will see a huge number of the latest collections.

Stay tuned to my blog so my A/W 18 trend report series which will be coming next month...

Phillippa x

Twitter - @Phillippa22
Instagram - phillippa22
Pinterest - phillippadesign

Wednesday, 7 March 2018

Spring 18 Couture Moodboard - Optical

The concept of surrealism was explored by Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior's Spring 18 couture offering. The brand has explored the notion of feminism the past few seasons, and for this latest collection this was linked with surrealism in terms of exploring dreams and the female form. A checkerboard floor provided a backdrop for a sea of black and white dresses which cascaded down the runway. The monochromatic prints included: butterflies, dominoes and optical illusion abstract shapes. Jean Paul Gaultier referenced 60s design icon Pierre Cardin for his couture collection. Fluid lines were present in Op art inspired skirts and gowns.
Phillippa x

Twitter - @Phillippa22
Instagram - phillippa22
Pinterest - phillippadesign

Tuesday, 6 March 2018

Academy Awards 2018 - Red Carpet

On Sunday 4th March, the 90th Academy Awards took place at the Dolby Theatre in Los Angeles. Take a look at what the stars wore to attend this event...
Laura Dern - Calvin Klein / Jane Fonda - Balmain
Margot Robbie - Chanel / Mary J Blige - Atelier Versace
Sally Hawkins - Armani Prive / Gal Gadot - Givenchy
Sandra Bullock - Louis Vuitton / Abbie Cornish - Elie Saab
Camila Alves - Vivienne Westwood Couture / Allison Williams - Armani Prive
Gina Rodriquez - Zuhair Murad / Elisabeth Moss - Christian Dior
Eiza Gonzalez - Ralph Lauren / Greta Gerwig - Rodarte
Lupita Nyong'o - Atelier Versace / Jennifer Lawrence - Christian Dior
Helen Mirren - Reem Acra / Nicole Kidman - Armani Prive
Jennifer Garner - Atelier Versace / Emily Blunt - Schiaparelli
Maya Rudolph - Valentino / Emma Stone - Louis Vuitton
Allison Janney - Reem Acra / Samara Weaving - Schiaparelli
Viola Davis - Michael Kors / Saoirse Ronan - Calvin Klein / Salma Hayek - Gucci
Taraji P Henson - Vera Wang / Zendaya - Giambattista Valli / Leslie Bibb - J. Mendel

My Best Dressed - Top 3 
1. Margot Robbie wearing Chanel - This look is flawless! I adore the cut of the bodice and the overall look is simplistic in it's styling. Margot pulls off this look with ease.
2. Jane Fonda wearing Balmain - This look is the epitome of Hollywood red carpet glamour. The gown fit like perfection, and Jane Fonda looked nothing short of elegant.
3. Allison Janney wearing Reem Acra - I found this look stunning. It can be hard to successfully wear such a bold colour on the red carpet but Allison wears this very well. Matching accessories completed the look.

Who was your best dressed?

Phillippa x

Twitter - @Phillippa
Instagram - phillippa22
Pinterest - phillippadesign

Saturday, 3 March 2018

Milan Fashion Week A/W 18 - Top 5

Milan fashion came to a close earlier this week. As I have done with New York and London, here is my top 5 review... *An extensive look at the collections can be seen on my Pinterest.
This season's collection was a dystopian offering. Neon brights and colour popping fluro's lit up the runway, along with digital blurred floral prints. Netted tulle was used to layer over dresses and jackets, and marked a stark contrast against the thick classic tweed. In some guises, the tweed in question was fashioned into corsets. Tech fabrics such as nylon and rubber further modernised the collection. I particularly liked the colour-blocked layering and oversized grey shearling jackets.
Francesco Risso titled his collection 'Technoprimitivism' - a contrast between our love of technology and movements of the soul. Many of the day dresses, were made to look as if they had been constructed from scraps of material with raw hems and naive stitches. As always with Marni, we saw extreme colour-blocking and off beat prints - my favourite of which was an illustration of a cat face. Nylon outerwear was also a recurring theme throughout. Playing with the idea of sustainability, which can be difficult for brands and retailers to achieve, a couple of the coats were made from compressed recycled textiles - you would never have guessed it. The surprising flecks of colour made these coats some of the standout pieces in the collection.
Ok so at first glance I was not that enamoured with the latest Gucci collection - models carrying severed heads and pet dragons was not exactly to my taste...but then you have to expect the unexpected with Gucci! The collection was called 'Cyborg' and was a conversation about identity. As a brand with such global appeal, there were many cross-cultural references including: Russian inspired coats, English tweed and Chinese pyjamas. Gucci collections are always complex, with many different citations and points of interest. Amongst my favourite looks were the floral/abstract printed dresses and the 20's inspired chainmail dresses. Expect to see the later shimmying on the red carpet very soon...
I can't deny that the first thing that sprung to mind when I saw this collection, was Cher Horowitz in the 1995 film classic Clueless. Punk inspired primary coloured tartan was sexed up for the runway, and came on pretty much every garment type including mini skirts, knitwear and accessories. It was bold and brash, in an unashamedly 80's/90's way, but very wearable at the same time. Total head-to-toe looks might be too much some, but as separates teamed with classic black they will slot into your wardrobe seamlessly.
Roberto Cavalli
Cavalli collections are always glamorous with a nod to the exotic, cue textured leathers and animal prints. Dreamy autumnal hues ran through the collection and sometimes these came together on ombre silks. Vampy red patent was seen on jackets, and handkerchief hems were a key feature. It wouldn't be Cavalli without some skin on show, and this season Paul Surridge presented slinky dresses with daring cutouts and fringing. The collection was nothing groundbreaking, but will no doubt please loyal fans of the brand.

Phillippa x

Twitter - @Phillippa22
Instagram - phillippa22
Pinterest - phillippadesign